Caballito: The Beating Heart of Buenos Aires

By Tracey Chandler

Caballito is the family-focused and learned beating heart of Buenos Aires. It might not have the nightlife appeal that Palermo can lay claim to, but it certainly has plenty of historical and literary charm.What does Caballito have to offer? What does Buenos Aires’ literary neighborhood have to share with the fleeting visitors of other countries?A little background:

Historically speaking, the Caballito neighborhood, which is the exact geographic center of the city, is where many of the really wealthy Porteños would spend their weekends. The neighborhood used to be full of colonial-style mansions, some of which are still standing today, harking back to the prestige and grandeur of Argentina’s past.

Despite the central location of this neighborhood, Caballito is characterized by the families, students and historical fanatics that plague its streets every single day, hoping to find yet another literary or musical gem to take home and add to their bulging collections.

Reasons to visit or stay in Caballito:

If you are visiting Buenos Aires for a long period of time, there are many reasons to rent an appartment in Caballito. You won’t find the impressive level of nightlife in this neighborhood that Palermo can offer, but you will be able to enjoy lazy afternoons and even lazier weekends, browsing Caballito’s streets and watching the busy world of the “ordinary” Buenos Aires pass you by.

Avenida Rivadavia:

Avenida Rivadavia is the central hub of Caballito. All bus routes to all parts of the city run along this street and the C line subway is also located all this busy strip. You’ll find cafes, restaurants, shopping malls and cinemas at every turn. It is the perfect place to begin your Caballito discovery upon arrival.

Parque Rivadavia:

Parque Rivadavia, which is located on Avenida Rivadavia, is not a very large park by Buenos Aires’ standards, but it emanates positive energy from single blade of grass. What’s more, the book and music market, which opens every day, is full to the brim of real gems for book and music lovers looking to add to their classic and obscure collections.

Historical Tramway Museum:

Fancy a tram ride or an introduction to the old and now out of use Buenos Aires tram system? Caballito is the place to be! The tram rides which only happen on Sundays are the perfect treat for children or those who are kids at heart. More information can be found about the tramway museum at, although the information is in Spanish.

The Philosophy and Literature Faculty:

If you love being surrounded by learning, education and students full of both radical ideas and philosophical concerns, Caballito is definitely the place to rent an apartment or find a hostel. The Philosophy and Literature Faculty is located at Puán 480.

Funky hairstyles, florescent shoelaces and T-shirts which shout out political ideals are the name of the game. If you feel inspired by these kinds of environments there are plenty of ways to get involved in university activity during your stay: Simply pass by the faculty and find out what’s going on that month.

The Simple Things in life:

Even when travelling we need something of the familiar every now and then. This might take the form of a long coffee stop over the weekend paper or a decent draft-pulled pint. Coffee in Buenos Aires is easy to find, but if you want a decent pint in Caballito, your best best is The Oldest at Avenida Elcano 3410.

Locos por el Fútbol is another really good spot if you want to catch a game at some point and what better city in which to do so than the football-loving Buenos Aires?


Palermo might be the neighborhood where nightlife and modern living is at its best and the Microcentro might be the place where you can tick off world famous sites from your Buenos Aires tourist check-list, but Caballito, for many reasons, is the true beating heart of Argentina’s heaving capital.

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