Cumaná! A great place to eat, whatever your taste, in Buenos Aires

By Tracey Chandler

Buenos Aires might be known worldwide for its cuts of tasty steak, but there’s a lot more to experience from the restaurant scene in Buenos Aires than beef and potatoes.

Vegetarians, those looking for a light snack, celiacs and meat-fanatics can all eat together in harmony when dining in Cumaná!

Cumaná, located at 1149 Rodríguez Peña in Recoleta, is a very popular restaurant every night of the week in Buenos Aires.

The decor is warm and inviting (particularly during the winter), the prices are very reasonable, the portions are plentiful and the service is swift. What’s more, the range of dishes available makes it easy to dine out with friends with a wide variety of dietary requirements and/or tastes to cater to.

It’s not possible to reserve a table at any time and on the weekend, you might have to wait a bit to get a table if things are busy, but it’s definitely worth the wait. So… what can you order?

Light snacks

Empanadas, stuffed with a variety of fillings, are available. They also serve a variety of cold meats and cheese selections to pick at. If you fancy trying out a traditional Argentine mate (in the winter) or tereré (in the summer), you can order the yerba, mate, thermos and side orderings of bread or biscuits too. Cumaná is a good place to just catch your breath a little in the middle of a busy day or at the end of one too.

Traditional dishes from the north of Argentina

Order tamales, humitas, locro, or a little bit of each dish to share. Corn is the base of each dish and they’re popular dishes from the north of the country. They’re perfect selections for a cold day in Buenos Aires and they go excellently with a bottle of red wine… try a Malbec from Mendoza. Tamales are savoury packets of corn dough, stuffed with meat and humitas are a sweetened version. Locro is a thick, yellow, corn-based stew, served with bits of diced bacon and chorizo (a spicy sausage).

What’s more, these corn-based dishes are perfect for celiacs too. Anyone who suffers from an allergy to wheat will be happy to know that they can dine wheat-free when opting for the traditional dishes from Argentina’s northern regions in Cumaná.


Try the “cazuelas de camarones,” which are basically attractive ceramic pots filled with servings of prawns. You don’t have to restrict yourself to a meat diet every day of the week in Argentina. Fish might not be a popular menu choice in every restaurant, but in Cumaná the quality of the shellfish is excellent and serves perfectly as either a healthy starter or a lunchtime snack.


The lentil stew, although VERY tasty, is sadly not meat-free. However, the mushroom risotto is a great option for vegetarians. Hot, plentiful and very creamy. It’s the perfect option for winter in Buenos Aires.


Naturally, for those people who do want to dine on meat every day of the week in Buenos Aires, Cumaná is more than capable of meeting your carnivorous desires. Meat empanadas, chorizos, morcillas (blood sausages) and a full range of Argentine steaks/ribs cooked on the parrilla (BBQ) are available. Order a small side-salad with your order. You’ll need to leave yourself plenty of room to get through all the meat cuts on offer.

Those with a sweet-tooth

The dessert menu in Cumaná is also a good one. Brownies, fruit salads, ice cream, apple pie, rice pudding, chocolate or passion fruit mousse, are just some of the options available. Don’t forget that a sweet coffee is also another perfect way of bringing your meal to an end if there’s no more room for dessert.

Great for kids

The tablecloths in Cumaná are creative, drawing spaces for children or the young-at-heart. Ask for a basket of colouring crayons upon arrival and keep your children entertained through the entire meal. It’s probably the only time you’ll let them draw all over the dining table to their hearts’ content without worrying about them destroying the furniture. Thumbs up to Cumaná for keeping things fun and family-friendly!

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